London Fashion Week has passed a month ago but some of the most exciting works are still bubbling in my head. Luckily Steven had got a wristband pass for every of us in the studio so we can sneak into all showrooms in Somerset House, where the buyers and editors were coming to see the most exciting, latest design from young London designers. I got a chance to go observe them, here are some selected because of their new, innovative, and exciting creations ever.
1. FAUSTINE STEINMETZ
The first one goes to Faustine Steinmetz, the Parisian Born, CSM MA fashion graduate who made her fabrics by hand, hand-weaving one to one, all in her East London studio. Faustine just set up her own label in early 2013 after acquiring her first hand loom, and is now a part of Topshop NEWGEN. All of her pieces are made with her belief in craftsmanship over trend. Through the replication of mass produced garments, using artisanal techniques, she reinterprets everyday pieces like jeans and denim jacket into a very whole new level. The whole process is extremely labour intensive, with some pieces taking weeks to complete. I was stunned by the quality and exciting artisan techniques she has put in her pieces. Faustine has re-invented some of the most iconic shapes of our time, challenging people’s perceptions of fabric and construction through her attention to process.
2. THE UNSEEN by LAUREN BOWKER
THE UNSEEN is an exploration house that blends biological and chemical matter into materials, focused on seeing the unseen by combining science with art, design, and performance. THE UNSEEN believes technology is magic. Their vision is to create a world of seamlessly captivating science; through exquisite couture, luxury products and opulent materials; in lieu of the believer searching for special pieces and unique experiences. When looking at her work, we are immersed in material science, enabling to see THE UNSEEN world that surrounds us.
Being a fan of her work for long time, I didn’t expect to meet Lauren in Person and was very excited when she was there. Talking with her was a superb experience, as she demonstrated the magic in her couture pieces to me when she touched and blowed it and it started to change colour. With her background in science and interest in art, she can merge the two world together seamlessly and thus created one the most exciting piece that gives me goosebumps. I have a passion to do something like her, interactive and innovative textile pieces – not ordinary at all. She also inspired me to look at MA Textiles course at the RCA, where she graduated with her famous work, Pheonix , which feathers are treated with heat reactive ink – changing its colours magically when heated.
In her new collection, THE UNSEEN has developed a form of wind reactive ink that changes colour upon contact with the air around us. Intended to reveal the otherwise unseen turbulence surrounding the human as it goes about its environment. As she blows the wind, the piece, made from leather panels, started to change its colour where it’s blown. Also, with the heat reactive ink, the leather also changes colour when pressed or touched by hand (body temperature).
3. MARTA JARKUBOWSKI
the recently RCA Fashion Womenswear graduate. Her work was kind of a ‘fabric train’ or ‘fashion centipede’, with heavy fabric pieces connecting one garment to each other together with a metal headdress. The lost of her mom has been the drive behind this conceptual, monastic-chic collection.
Her work is very interesting , check out more here
4. CLARIE BARROW
Another favourite London young designer of mine. Claire Barrow is one of Topshop NEWGEN project, showcasing at LFW this year. Her inspiration is the story of the ‘VIRUS’ taken over the Western world, which reverse the evolution and transforms human into their household pets. However, there is an exception for women with medical expertise. These women are seen as superwomen, as goddesses, and this collection is their uniform. Zombie + Psychopath + Hospital Chic? Interesting story ever.
Also her hand-paintings over leather and shoes were very pretty and expressive, make me want to paint my own one.
5. JULIA THOMAS
Julia was sitting there when I stomped to her booth. Captivated by the beauty of her footwear pieces on the shelf, I was contemplating, looking over and over again at the acrylic heels and the reverse-sole sandals. We talked to each other and was surprised when she told me that she just graduated from RCA Footwear (She was very nice) and just set up her own label in 2014, so this SS15 is her first commercial collection. All productions are in Italy, where she went to find the factory herself. “Modern femininity and asymmetry. Purity is an important aspect of my work. I am meticulous about the flow of each line and the influence it has on the silhouette.” – Julia Thomas
Last but not least, on the second floor of Somerset House, there were RTW showroom, a hall for numbers of young designers and brands based in London to showcase their SS15 collections, including Steven Tai, the brand I am interning with. From here I discovered a very cool Swiss fashion label, Berenik, with the designer Veronika Brusa who is based in between Zurich – New York.
That’s it. A delight to see beautiful and innovative creations from forward-thinking people with a daring sense of style. Stored in my inspiration warehouse – ☑ ☑ ☑